July 2020
With international travel still limited by restrictions in July 2020, we decided to explore closer to home and headed to Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, on the Jutland peninsula. While Aarhus offers plenty to see, my real destination was a short drive away – a historic ship I’d long wanted to visit: the legendary frigate Jylland.
As someone who’s always been fascinated by old ships, I’ve visited several famous naval vessels over the years, including HMS Victory in Portsmouth, HMS Belfast in London, and USS Constitution in Boston. But the Danish frigate Jylland, renowned for its role in the Battle of Helgoland in 1864, had been on my bucket list for years.
Launched in 1860, Jylland is a remarkable ship with a storied history that showcases both the challenges of war and the resilience of maritime heritage. Built for the Royal Danish Navy, it played a significant role in the Second Schleswig War, particularly during the Battle of Helgoland, where it achieved notable naval victories despite Denmark’s overall defeat.
However, the frigate faced a perilous future, coming close to destruction in the late 19th century when it was deemed obsolete and nearly scrapped. Thanks to the dedication of preservationists, Jylland was saved from this fate and is now transformed into an open-air museum. Here visitors are invited to explore the ship’s rich legacy and 19th-century naval architecture. It is an important piece of Danish naval history and deserves a visit.
Our visit began with a stop at the gift shop to purchase tickets. Before stepping aboard, we passed through a small exhibit that told the story of Jylland’s dramatic past – from its construction to its near-dismantling. The exhibit also highlighted the extensive conservation efforts that have preserved this maritime treasure. There’s even a treasure chest where visitors can contribute to its ongoing preservation.
Once outside, you’re greeted by the sight of Jylland resting in a vast drydock. The ship’s grandeur is immediately striking, much like the preserved vessels HMS Victory and the clipper Cutty Sark in England. Walking around the drydock gives you a full appreciation of the ship’s scale and craftsmanship, especially as you descend to view the immense screw propeller and copper-clad hull. Standing beneath the ship, looking up at its vast curved belly, really puts its size into perspective.
The tour starts in the ship’s lowest levels, accessed via a small hatch leading directly into the cargo hold. Natural light filters in from the deck above as you climb through the ship, navigating narrow stairways that take you upwards through different levels.
One of the highlights is the gun deck, lined with rows of imposing cannons. Although Jylland only has a single gun deck compared to HMS Victory’s three, it’s easy to imagine the powerful broadside it could unleash during its naval battles against Prussian and Austrian ships at Helgoland.
Some of the cannons, despite their brutish design, are intricately adorned with gilded coats of arms and manufacturer’s marks, hinting at the artistry behind their construction.
As a naval history enthusiast, I relish the chance to explore any old warship, and it was particularly rewarding to visit a vessel so deeply connected to Denmark’s own maritime past. Though Denmark lost the war of 1864, the Jylland’s victory at sea stands as a proud reminder of the country’s naval tradition. This ship is the last of its kind, a final relic of an era when wooden-hulled warships ruled the seas.
Though Ebeltoft is about an hour outside Aarhus, it’s easy to reach by car or public transport. If you’re relying on public transportation, Bus 123 from central Aarhus takes you directly to the heart of Ebeltoft, and the frigate is just a short walk from the bus stop. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about Denmark’s naval heritage, Frigatten Jylland is well worth the trip.