We drove across Denmark in March to the Danish island of Rømø in hope of experiencing a black sun.
We took a short holiday in March to the small Danish island of Rømø. The island is situated near the German border on the Jutland peninsular. The island has around 600 inhabitants, but plenty of holiday homes, so I suspect it can get quite busy during the summer season. We rented a holiday day house through Feriepartner Rømø near a small bird sanctuary on the Southern tip of the island.
The area is part of The Wadden Sea National Park with plenty of wildlife. We were hoping to see what in Danish is called “Sort Sol” (English: Black Sun). It is a term for migrating birds gathering in huge swarms to scare away birds of prey. Luckily we experienced it several times and we even encountered a few rare birds (for Denmark). We would like to return to this area another time, but preferably in August or September. At that time the weather should be a bit better and that should be the perfect time to see the birds migrate South for the winter.
For some years I have wanted to visit Dyrehaven near Copenhagen during the Christmas holidays, but never really had the chance. This year I took the car back home, so I could bring my tripod and 150-600mm lens for the camera. It also seemed like the perfect chance to learn more about my new Nikon Z7ii mirrorless camera.
I visited Dyrehaven during the morning hours to see the sunrise and get a chance to find some of the local deer roaming the forests and fields around the Eremitageslottet. I read online that the male deer favourites the Northern part of the park, so I parked the car near Tvendehus at the Northern entrance.
Luckily the parks staff feed the deer around 8AM, so hundreds of deer was massed around some huts where the food was placed. I managed to capture photos of several large deer.
I’m a sucker for new technology and the new mirrorless technology for cameras have been tempting me for some time. In December 2020 Nikon’s new flagship mirrorless camera – the Nikon Z7ii – was released and I became one of the first in Denmark to get hold of it.
Nikon Z7ii
Two years ago I switched from Nikon’s DX format to the full frame (FX) D810. The change also meant I started shooting in RAW, rather than .jpg, which involved not only learning a new camera, but also a whole new post-processing technique in Lightroom. My first photo session with the D810 was quite underwhelming because I couldn’t figure out why my photos looked so poor in the LED-display on the camera.
However, after learning the power of the RAW-format and spending lots of hours with Adobe Lightroom I slowly learned how to utilize the powerful Nikon FX-camera – and I have loved it ever since. During those two years, several of my photos have been used in magazines, in ads and on various websites, so I must have done something correct with both my shooting and edits.
Low light test with the Nikon Z7ii at the local harbour.
So switching to a new technology again, the mirrorless Nikon Z7ii, I am very prepared for a learning curve yet again. So I’ve started testing it in various situations with low light, wildlife and landscape photography.
Astrophotography with the Nikon Z7ii
On my birthday the skies suddenly cleared for a few hours at night, which gave me the chance to test the camera at astrophotography. I drove to Kultippen (a barren area on Bornholm island) and captured this selfie:
Kultippen, Bornholm
The photo was captured with a Samyang 14mm lens, which was fitted with an adaptor to the camera. Overall it seems to perform quite well.
Wildlife photography with the Nikon Z7ii
The following day I went for a trip in Almindingen forest on Bornholm, where I captured a small heard of bison amongst the trees using a Sigma 150-600m lens:
Bison crossing a clearing in the forest.
I experience quite a few problems with the auto-focus and the camera’s ISO went crazy. In the shot above I had the camera on auto-ISO and it set it to a whopping 8000. Luckily I could use Tropaz DeNoise AI to reduce the noise and it was acceptable for Instagram.
A 2nd bison crossing the clearing.
I took another shot of a 2nd bison in almost the same light with a fixed ISO of around 1200. It gave some post-processing noise in Lightroom, since I had to add more exposure. All in all, I think the camera was a bit overzealous with the ISO and lower could have done the trick.
Spotted some hikers in the forest.
Landscape photography with the Nikon Z7ii
On the way home I stopped at the ruins of a medieval castle to test the camera in the foggy environment. The result was quite decent, so I think the learning curve with regular landscape photography will be quite easy.
Lille Borg (English: Little Castle) in Almindingen Forest, Bornholm.
The COVID-19 travel restrictions limited travel options this summer, but for Danes, both Iceland and the Faroe Islands were possible destinations. I’ve been following several Instagram and YouTube photographers who have captured stunning images of both places. However, I was particularly keen on photographing the puffins on Mykines with my 600mm Sigma lens. Hence, we opted to visit the Faroe Islands this year.
We arranged the entire trip through Færøernerejser, which meant we didn’t need to worry about hotels, routes, car rentals, or anything else—just the experiences and places we wanted to see.
One of the initial realizations when you begin marking attractions on a map of the Faroe Islands is their relative smallness. Typically, it takes around an hour to travel between your accommodation and the attractions. However, hiking from the car park often consumes most of the day.
In this blog post, I’ve outlined our itinerary for the trip and showcased my favorite photos from each day.
Day 1 – Vagár
We took a SAS flight from Copenhagen to Vagár airport on the Faroe Islands where we picked up our rented car from 62°N Car Rental. Luckily we got a free upgrade to a Renault Captur. This turned out to be the perfect car for our needs with plenty of room and comfy seeding. Our travel agency arranged for a single night at Hotel Vagar just a few hundred meters from the airport. This place is a self-service check-in with an excellent breakfast and is a great base for trips to Mykines and the rest of Vagár island.
Fiskastykkið restaurant
After our flight and check-in, we were rather hungry and used Google Maps to find a good restaurant near our hotel. Oddly enough we couldn’t find that many that was open on a Sunday. Luckily, we found one place in the nearby town of Sandavágur and it turned out to be one of the best places we dined during the whole trip! The place is named Fiskastykkið and is situated near the southern end of the town. Sadly we didn’t get any photos of the food, but I can highly recommend their fishbowl dish.
After eating lunch my wife dropped me off on the way back to the hotel, so I could hike out to the Trælanípan cliff on Vágar island. There is a parking spot at the start of the hiking trail, but you have to pay a fee of around 450 Danish kroner (around 60€) to walk the trail. It might sound a bit steep, but the experience is well worth the price.
The hiking path to Trælanípan. Notice the people at the top of the cliff.
The walk to Trælanípan is about 4km and takes about an hour. The path is well maintained, but I wouldn’t recommend with a baby carriage or wheelchair. There are no shops or vending machines on the hike (only at the parking lot at the beginning), so remember to take a bottle of water with you. The path is up and down some hills and valleys.
Once you get to the end, you can walk out on the cliff and look back down the coastal cliffs and see the Trælanípan cliff in all its glory. Seagulls swoop down from the cliff and above the waves breaking on the rock. It it quite a sight, but remember not to get to close to the edge!
Trælanípan with some people waaay to close the edge of the cliff.
if you have the time before heading back you should also go to the Southern edge of the cliff and see the Bøsdalafossur waterfall.
Bøsdalafossur waterfall.
Day 2 – Mykines
This island is home to several thousand puffins. I’ve seen amazing photos and videos of this place on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube through the years and finally, I got to see it myself.
We took the ferry from Sørvágur to Mykines as early as we could to have a full day on the island. The ferry takes about 30-40 minutes, and on the route, we got to see some of the Faroe Islands’ amazing coastal landscape. I highly recommend staying on the open deck of the ferry if the weather isn’t too cold.
View of the coast from the ferry.
It is possible to see puffins right around the harbour at Mykines, but if you hike to the top of the island, and follow the path towards the light, you will get to see the puffins up close.
Remember to bring cash or a VISA card to pay the hiking fee. I couldn’t figure out where to pay in town, so in the end, I started hiking up the cliff. At the very top, some lady ran after because I passed her by without paying the hiking free. Apparently, you pay that at the very top of the cliff. The fee is about 250 Danish kroner (33€). If you don’t want to pay or can’t walk the route, then you can also sit an enjoy the puffins near the harbour. You can even get quite close and get a good view with some binoculars.
This shot is taken at the harbour on Mykines.
I brought my 150-600mm Sigma lens, but at some of the places, the puffins were so close to the hiking path that I didn’t really need a zoom lens.
There is a small café on the island where you can get a cup of coffee and a piece of cake, but I highly recommend bringing water, good hiking shoes and a snack.
Mykines is a definite must-see while visiting the Faroe Islands. Just remember that that island closes for tourists in September and I highly recommend booking the ferry in advance!
Day 3 – Gjogv, Funningur and Fossá
On our third day on the Faroe Islands, we headed for the small village of Gjogv, where we booked into the picturesque Gjaargardur Guesthouse. The guesthouse offers breakfast and very good dinner – though the prices are a bit high. Gjogv is easy to get to by road and nearby you find a hiking route that offers an overview of the nearby town of Funningur.
Gjaargardur Guesthouse
The hiking trail is a bit hard to find (there really isn’t a visible trail), but if you drive from Gjogv to Funningur, you will encounter a small roadside parking spot near some fences. This is where you need to park the car and pass over the fence using the stairs.
If you walk across the fields with the mountain to your left, then eventually you will encounter a cliffside with a gorgeous view of Funningur.
Day 4 – Kalsoy and Kallur Lighthouse
We took an overnight stay at the town of Klaksvig on one of the Eastern islands. It seemed like a medium sized town with a heavy fishing industry. It wouldn’t recommend staying here for several days, but it is a perfect starting point for a trip to Kalsoy island and the well-photographed Kallur Lighthouse.
The island is not accessible by road, so you have to take the old car-ferry from Klaksvig. The ferry takes about 30 minutes or so before it docks at the Southern tip of Kalsoy island at the small town Syðradalur.
View of Trøllanes town from the first part of the hiking route.
After driving off the ferry you head North to the town of Trøllanes where you can park your car. When I visited in late August most of the town was closed. I recommend bringing water/cokes and some snacks/food. There are also some public restrooms available right before you start your hike to the lighthouse.
Kallur Lighthouse
Sadly, the wind was blowing quite heavily on the day I was there. The weather was also very grey with clouds, which prevented me from getting those great shots of the lighthouse that you can see on Instagram. However, I did manage to snap some photos that I was quite happy with. However, this is a place I would like to revisit on a day with more sun and clear skies.
Day 5 – Tórshavn
The forecast for our fifth day on the island promised rain – and a lot of it – so we drove to Tórshavn to do some shopping and visit a museum or two.
Tórshavn seems like a lovely city, but the grey weather and rain showers gave the urban environment a dull appearance compared to the amazing natural vistas we had seen the previous days.
Streymin Bridge during a heavy rain shower
After a bit of shopping we headed for the National Museum, but on the way we were hit by a heavy rainshower that left us soaked to the skin. We decided to head back to the hotel and just relax a bit before going home the next day.
Day 6 – Going home again
On our last day on the Faroe Islands, we headed back to the airport and dropped off our rental car.
Vagár Airport is rather small and everything was closed while we waited for our plane to arrive. However, it gave me time to edit a few photos and look at some brochures with inspiration for our next visit to the Faroe Islands – because this is a place I need to re-visit and experience again!
During the COVID-19 pandemic, with borders closed and international travel off the table, I seized the opportunity to revisit one of my favorite museums in Denmark: Moesgaard Museum in Aarhus.
Since its stunning new building opened in 2014, Moesgaard has set a high standard in both architecture and exhibitions, rivaling any museum I have visited worldwide. As you enter, a grand staircase leads you down to the permanent exhibition, where lifelike models of our ancient ancestors await, immersing you in a journey through history.
The permanent exhibit focuses on Denmark’s Bronze and Iron Ages, utilizing a blend of text and audio-visual narration. The dim lighting creates a haunting atmosphere that enhances the experience without becoming uncomfortable, perfectly complementing the artifacts on display.
Grauballemanden
Bound for disaster - Pompeii and Herculaneum
A temporary exhibition at Moesgaard
During my visit, I was fortunate to explore the temporary exhibition, ‘Bound for Disaster,’ which features artifacts from the ancient Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Both cities were tragically buried under volcanic ash during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79.
The subdued lighting in the exhibition can pose challenges for photography, but it also deepens the somber mood, echoing the tragic events it recounts. Visitors are welcomed by a ship’s ram at the entrance, belonging to a Roman galley that sank in the disaster. Remarkably, a piece of wood still clings to it, a poignant reminder of the past.
As I moved through the exhibit, I learned about the daily lives of the ancient Romans— their homes, workshops, and society. The journey culminates in a dark room, where a starry ceiling contrasts starkly with the somber topic. Here, you find the molds of the victims entombed in ash, their bodies decayed over time, leaving voids that archaeologists have filled with plaster, creating haunting casts of their final moments.
Moesgaard Museum not only offers an engaging introduction to ancient Denmark through its compelling audio-visual experiences but also showcases world-class temporary exhibitions. If you find yourself near Aarhus in Jutland, a visit to Moesgaard is an absolute must!
A Visit to Frigatten Jylland – Denmark’s Historic Naval Gem
July 2020
With international travel still limited by restrictions in July 2020, we decided to explore closer to home and headed to Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, on the Jutland peninsula. While Aarhus offers plenty to see, my real destination was a short drive away – a historic ship I’d long wanted to visit: the legendary frigate Jylland.
As someone who’s always been fascinated by old ships, I’ve visited several famous naval vessels over the years, including HMS Victory in Portsmouth, HMS Belfast in London, and USS Constitution in Boston. But the Danish frigate Jylland, renowned for its role in the Battle of Helgoland in 1864, had been on my bucket list for years.
Launched in 1860, Jylland is a remarkable ship with a storied history that showcases both the challenges of war and the resilience of maritime heritage. Built for the Royal Danish Navy, it played a significant role in the Second Schleswig War, particularly during the Battle of Helgoland, where it achieved notable naval victories despite Denmark’s overall defeat.
However, the frigate faced a perilous future, coming close to destruction in the late 19th century when it was deemed obsolete and nearly scrapped. Thanks to the dedication of preservationists, Jylland was saved from this fate and is now transformed into an open-air museum. Here visitors are invited to explore the ship’s rich legacy and 19th-century naval architecture. It is an important piece of Danish naval history and deserves a visit.
Exploring the Museum at Frigatten Jylland
Our visit began with a stop at the gift shop to purchase tickets. Before stepping aboard, we passed through a small exhibit that told the story of Jylland’s dramatic past – from its construction to its near-dismantling. The exhibit also highlighted the extensive conservation efforts that have preserved this maritime treasure. There’s even a treasure chest where visitors can contribute to its ongoing preservation.
Once outside, you’re greeted by the sight of Jylland resting in a vast drydock. The ship’s grandeur is immediately striking, much like the preserved vessels HMS Victory and the clipper Cutty Sark in England. Walking around the drydock gives you a full appreciation of the ship’s scale and craftsmanship, especially as you descend to view the immense screw propeller and copper-clad hull. Standing beneath the ship, looking up at its vast curved belly, really puts its size into perspective.
The tour starts in the ship’s lowest levels, accessed via a small hatch leading directly into the cargo hold. Natural light filters in from the deck above as you climb through the ship, navigating narrow stairways that take you upwards through different levels.
One of the highlights is the gun deck, lined with rows of imposing cannons. Although Jylland only has a single gun deck compared to HMS Victory’s three, it’s easy to imagine the powerful broadside it could unleash during its naval battles against Prussian and Austrian ships at Helgoland.
Some of the cannons, despite their brutish design, are intricately adorned with gilded coats of arms and manufacturer’s marks, hinting at the artistry behind their construction.
As a naval history enthusiast, I relish the chance to explore any old warship, and it was particularly rewarding to visit a vessel so deeply connected to Denmark’s own maritime past. Though Denmark lost the war of 1864, the Jylland’s victory at sea stands as a proud reminder of the country’s naval tradition. This ship is the last of its kind, a final relic of an era when wooden-hulled warships ruled the seas.
How to get there
Though Ebeltoft is about an hour outside Aarhus, it’s easy to reach by car or public transport. If you’re relying on public transportation, Bus 123 from central Aarhus takes you directly to the heart of Ebeltoft, and the frigate is just a short walk from the bus stop. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about Denmark’s naval heritage, Frigatten Jylland is well worth the trip.
This month I have been on a quest: To capture a photo of the comet “C / 2020 F3” – also known as NEOWISE.
However, it proved harder than first imagined. The first night I could see the comet clearly and, following advice from experts on TV, I planned to photograph NEOWISE around 3-4 AM. As the clocked passed 3 AM I noticed the comet getting fainter in the sky.
The morning sky was beautiful and I took some photos of the sun rising above Bornholm’s landscapes.
On July 18 I ventured out a little after midnight and joined a fellow photographer for a final attempt at getting a good shot of the comet. This time we had more luck.
And as the sun starting to rise the morning sky transformed into a beautiful vista of colours.
Exploring Christiansø: A 17th Century Naval Fortress
In June 2020, I had the pleasure of joining my colleagues for a two-day work outing to the Ertholmene archipelago. You may not be familiar with Ertholmene or its two main islands, Christiansø and Frederiksø, as they often fade into the shadow of their larger neighbor, Bornholm. However, a local ferry operates almost daily from Gudhjem on Bornholm to Christiansø, and I assure you, it’s well worth the trip!
The Ertholmene archipelago, often simply referred to as Christiansø, is not only a picturesque cluster of islands but also a historic naval fortress dating back to the 17th century. The archipelago has a rich history; it was established as a military outpost in 1684 to protect Denmark from naval threats and has served various roles over the centuries, including a bird sanctuary. The unique ecosystem supports numerous bird species, making it a haven for nature enthusiasts.
In recent years, local administration—operating under the Danish Ministry of Defence—has worked diligently to transform Christiansø into a tourist-friendly destination. While it is possible to spend the night on the island, most visitors typically enjoy a few hours before returning to Bornholm.
On my previous visit to Christiansø, I only had a few fleeting hours to explore. Therefore, this time I was excited to stay overnight, allowing me to capture both the sunset and sunrise—though it meant sacrificing quite a bit of sleep! Fueled by a Monster energy drink, I managed to photograph both, joined by some colleagues eager to document the stunning scenery with their cameras.
To top it off, the local administration granted special permission for drone flights over the island. Concerned about disturbing the birds, I opted to fly a bit higher than usual, which rewarded me with breathtaking aerial views of the area.
If you find yourself on Bornholm, I wholeheartedly recommend taking the ferry from Gudhjem to Christiansø. It’s the perfect day trip, offering fantastic photo opportunities and a chance to immerse yourself in the island’s tranquil atmosphere.
My website got hacked and sadly I could not save the content – including all my old blog posts. I had to rebuild it from scratch, but that also gave me the chance to optimize the structure and content. Now my website is back and better than ever… and hopefully a bit more secure than before.
